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Mar 5

The Ceiriog Valley On a Slate – Part Two


The Cambrian Slate Co was closed, but after two years the neighbouring and comparatively smaller Wynne Quarry was opened under George Rooper, a man who breathed life back into the slate trade of the valley. A seasoned businessman and owner of the Pant Glas Slate Co., he began focusing on the improvement of machinery and transportation. Glyn Ceiriog grew as the worker from Rooper’s other work sites were relocated there along with their families. A firm believer in supporting the community, he provided the village with water channelled down from the mines and later in 1904, filtered water piped directly into homes and some homes even had electric lighting.

Ceiriog Valley (All Rights Reserved)

Ceiriog slate was becoming more successful this time around, and as confidence grew, so did the quarries in the valley. In order to compete with the local slate mines in the valley, Rooper re-opened the Cambrian Quarry together with his brother, and invested in mining new veins providing them with dense and more resilient high-quality slate. Prices also became more competitive, as the tramway cost was decreased greatly by the removal of the turnpike tolls and now steam trains travelled from the valley up to the more convenient Chirk Station. Hardships would continue as two world wars would cut demand and competition once again got the better of them. The Ceiriog slate trade continued to persevere up until 1935, when the Cambrian once again closed.

Slate (cc Elliott Brown)

Closed to the public, the quarries lay dormant in the beautiful green mountains, relics of the industrial age that helped shape this secluded valley. Wynne has had a more active retirement than Cambrian, having a variety of uses over the years, serving as a bomb-shelter during WWII, a reserve water supply for the village, and as a museum for tourists, run by the daughter of one of the former owners. There is currently no museum dedicated to the mines, but the Glyn Valley Trust, formed to rebuild the railway between Chirk and Glyn Ceiriog, are currently rebuilding a mile of the tramway from Chirk into the valley at Pontfaen Station with plans to offer old-fashioned train rides by 2013. Until then, why not take the bus into this pretty valley and have a nice walk to clear your mind and start the week on a fresh slate? Enjoy the weekend and don’t forget to follow us on twitter @ceiriogpheasant.

Model Glyn Valley Tramway (cc Elsie Esq)

Slate (cc Elliott Brown)

Feb 9

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The Ceiriog Valley On a Slate – Part One


You’ve probably heard of Welsh slate. Just go into any gift shop in Wales and you’ll find countless souvenirs made of this beautiful rock, but I doubt you can imagine the extent to which it has shaped Wales. Slate became a major source of income for the Welsh during the late 19th and early 20th century, becoming the main export of the North where there was an abundant supply to feed an ever growing demand. Why was slate so sought after? Well, slate is a sedimentary stone made up of thin layers of rock, and by cutting the layers they were able to produced handy nearly-flat sheets. With its resistance to freezing weather and lifespan of about 80 to 100 years, this made slate the perfect material for roofing. Practical, durable, and stylish.

Near Hendre

Slate affected communities big and small, and such an area was the Ceiriog Valley in the Welsh borderland near Chirk and part of Wrexham County. Named after the river that flows through it, the Ceiriog Valley is a secluded valley with a strong Welsh heritage. The quarries were the livelihood for many of the families in the communities throughout the Ceiriog Valley, dating back to before the 1500s. The major quarries were located midway into the valley — there was granite from Hendre, chinastone from Pandy, and slate from the hills above Glyn Ceiriog, mainly traded in the local market until the Ellesmere Canal at Chirk (now best known as the Llangollen Canal) arrived in 1799. The valley’s reach began to spread out, but with the distance of 6 miles and more separating the quarries and the canal, and pack animals as the only means to carry the load, things were moving slow.

In 1848 the railway arrived in Chirk, bringing with it new possibilities of commerce to the region. However, things really began to change in the 1850s, when the national slate “boom” helped the valley grow and connect to the rest of the world through the increasing development of the quarries. In 1857, the first real quarrying company in the valley was formed — the Cambrian Slate Company. It would play a major role in the improvement of transportation through the Ceiriog Valley.

See more information about the Cambrian Slate Mine here

Cambrian Slate Quarry

Cambrian Slate Co. knew there was a large deposit of slate that promised a high yield just sitting below, but it needed an economic solution to bring the freight out of the long and narrow valley other than the rough roads. Efforts at improving the roads and joining the steadily growing rail network led to a turnpike road being completed in 1863. It stretched from Hendre through Glyn Ceiriog to Bronygarth (close to Pont Faen) with three tollgates, but for Cambrian Slate Co. that had funded half of the ten thousand pounds needed to build the turnpike, this was still not enough.

The Glyn Valley Tramway Route

Henry Dennis, the company’s consulting engineer, knew what was needed to compete with the better connected quarries in North Wales, and applications for tramways were put forth. His first proposal was rejected, as was his second, but in 1870, his proposal for a tramway system between Glyn Ceiriog and Gledrid was approved and thus the Glyn Valley Tramway Company was founded. Opening in 1876 with Mr. Dennis as engineer, it ran the steady business of transporting freight for the quarries and passengers. It wasn’t before long that Glyn Ceiriog became its own station with tracks continuing further into the quarries.

G.V.Tramway at Glyn Ceiriog Station

While demand remained high, slate from the Ceiriog Valley was finally reaching the big markets, but the quality wasn’t there. The competition from the heavily mechanized quarries of the Ffestiniog district further west and the cheaper high-output of the giant Caernarfon mines proved too much for Cambrian Slate Co. and, in 1881, it went into liquidation. The quality of the slate depends on how it is cut into sheets; the better the tools, the better the quality, and the quarries in the valley still had a long ways to go. The future seemed bleak, but this story isn’t over just yet! Join me next time for part two, and please join us on twitter @ceiriogpheasant.

Feb 4

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Woven in Snowdonia – Trefriw Woollen Mill


Last Wednesday, we travelled west to the Conwy Valley, where we visited Trefriw Woollen Mill to choose fabrics for the guest rooms we’re refurbishing right now at the Golden Pheasant.

Outside the Mill

Trefriw Woollen Mill

It’s a great place to shop if you’re looking for something else than plastic dragons (not that I have anything against dragons!)

Trefriw Mill

Trefriw Woollen Mill - Great Store

The Mill has a great selection of fabrics.

Welsh Fabrics

Traditional Welsh Fabrics

We chose a cranberry red fabric for the first room we are redecorating:

Welsh Fabric

Woven in Snowdonia

We will be chosing one colour for each of the four rooms. Stay tuned for the result in a month’s time!

You can shop online through the mill’s website http://www.t-w-m.co.uk :

Trefriw Woolen Mill

Trefriw Woollen Mill Website Copyright: Trefriw Woollen Mill

Jan 31

The Great Oak at the Gate of the Dead, Ceiriog Valley


Have you seen a giant oak, split down the middle as if a bolt of lightning struck right through it? This is “the Great Oak at the Gate of the Dead” and has lived in this valley for over a millennia. Part of its name, “The Gate of the Dead,” refers to the nearby site of the battle of Crogen, in which so many English soldiers lost their lives. Luckily the tree was spared the axes of Henry II’s invasion force. The tree is thought to be at least 1100 years old, as it would have been at least 300 years old during the battle in 1165. General consensus is that it probably dates back at least to the reign of King Egbert in 802.The trunk measures a circumference of 10 metres, or 34 feet, making is quite a large giant.

Oak Before the Split

The Great Oak whole cc Rob McBride

Disaster struck during a major cold spell in the winter of 2009-2010, when it was split down the middle. Water is thought to have seeped into the tree and settled into the hollow trunk, and when the temperature dropped during the night, the water froze and split the tree; a simple force of nature, but with devastating result. Fear not, however, for this tree is still very much alive.

The Great Oak

Oak at the Gate of the Dead Oct 2010 cc Rob McBride

The tree is a spectacular sight to see, one of great oaks of the Ceiriog Valley, especially during the spring and summer season. Let me know how you find it, and don’t forget to join us on twitter @ceiriogpheasant!

Great Oak

Great Oak cc Rob McBride

Information about the Oak on the Ancient Tree Hunt Website: The Great Oak at the Gate of the Dead

Jan 27

Crogen Signs

Against the Odds: The Battle of Crogen, Ceiriog Valley


Listen! Do you hear the rumbling of English soldiers marching forward? The year is 1165, and King Henry II is sending the front lines of his army into the Ceiriog Valley, with the aim to travel over the Berwyn Mountains. There are whispers that his campaign isn’t just to conquer the Welsh, but to wipe their existence off the face of the Earth. Little does he know that he shall soon encounter a battle with forces formed by an alliance of Welsh Princes, under Prince Owain Gwynedd. The Welsh forces are outnumbered, facing an army larger than any previously encountered, and the rain poured from the sky; things did not look good.

Crogen Battlefield, across B4500

Prince Owain had come up with a cunning plan: skirmishers would hide in the thick woods overlooking the pass. Skirmishers were a type of light infantry, firing volleys of projectiles, such as arrows and javelins at the enemy. These guerrilla tactics proved effective, and Henry II called forth 2000 woodsmen to cut down trees to widen the pass to allow his soldiers to march through quicker and more defended. The woodsmen were well guarded, amongst the troops was a powerful force of pikemen, but they would be no match for what lay in wait.

Crogen Battlefield, across River

Crogen Battlefield, across River

It is nearby an oak tree, where Owain main assault lay in ambush.  The oak’s name bears a potent reminder of what happened here: “The Great Oak of the Gate of the Dead.” Around 1000 years old, it is one of the oldest trees in Wales. If only this magnificent tree could talk!  The encounter between Owain and Henry would be known as the Battle of Crogen, taking place in what is now a pleasant field between the road and the river complete with sheep. The name Crogen would become synonymous with “desperate courage” long after this brutal and bloody battle was over. The English troops suffer heavy losses and nearly losing their king, had it not been for commander ‘Hugh de St Clare’ who throws himself in the path of a javelin destined for Henry II. The battle is won by the Welsh forces, and a defeated Henry II retreats, never to attempt going through the Ceiriog Valley again.

Well, I hope you enjoyed that little history lesson, now let’s get down to some practical modern day info. A bus stop happens to be right there, perfect for those looking to do some walking. There are buses throughout the day from Chirk, Wrexham and Llangollen, and any of the villages along the B4500 in the Ceiriog Valley.

Bus stop

Go through the stone wall next to the bus stop, up the path and you’ll come to a bench and three signs overlooking the battlegrounds. Cross the road and walk trough the small village (Castle Hill Cottages) up to the bridge and you’ll see the commemorative plaque that was issued to this site in 2009. Offas Dyke Trail crosses the Ceiriog River here.

Around the corner lies a 4.5 mile trail to the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. If you are staying in the Ceiriog Valley you can always catch a bus back from Trevor.

A bit of exciting history in this peaceful valley that wasn’t always so peaceful. See if you can feel the determination and spirit of the warriors that kept the forces at bay.

Find out more:
A short film (2011) using re-enactment groups about the Battle of Crogen made for Wrexham Histories Festival at Glyndwr University. click here
The unveiling of the Battle of Crogen commemoration plaque. click here

Come back to the Ceiriog Pheasant blog to read more about the Ceiriog Valley and the surrounding area. Next I will look closer at the Crogen Oak.

Please, don’t forget to join us on twitter @ceiriogpheasant.

If you are looking for a place to stay, check out our inn at www.goldenpheasanthotel.co.uk  We can’t wait to welcome you to the Ceiriog Valley and all it has to offer.

Jan 25

chirk10
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Chirk’s 700 Year Old Medieval Fortress Complete With Dungeon and A Red… Hand?!?


Are you a fan of old castles but tired of only finding old ruins? Fear not, Chirk is the place for you. The large estate is located on top of the hill in the forest, overlooking the serene countryside and the Ceiriog Valley. It comes complete with a tower and dungeon, Long Gallery from the 1600s, state apartments from the 1700s and even a historic laundry. The award winning garden is also a must see.

Chirk Castle cc Christine and Hugen Graf/Flickr

The castle was built in the late 13th century by Roger Mortimer, Justice of North Wales for Edward I as a marching fort. It was later sold to Sir Thomas Myddleton in 1595, his descendants remain there to this day. The estate is also home to a variety of wildlife such as the red deer, which can be seen grazing on the land. The walk from the parking to the castle is about 45 minutes, so bring your walking shoes.

Charming Chirk Gates cc Sue Hasker/Flickr

If you are travelling up from Chirk or from the Ceiriog valley, take the bridge over the railway by the train station. At the top of the hill, stop and take a moment to admire the beautifully iron gates, dating back to 1719, and see the red hand? It appears as part of the family coat-of-arms, but also has a bit of mythology surrounding it. As the story goes, there was once two prince brothers who were rivals over a maiden. To decide who should marry her, they would have a race to the gate and whoever laid their hand upon it first would win. Well, during the final leg of the race, the prince who was losing made a desperate attempt to win: by cutting off his hand and chucking it at the gate ahead. He won the right to marry the maiden and they lived happily ever after, unlike one of the many alternate myths where a bloody hand appeared as an evil curse upon the castle. The curse can only be lifted if someone survives the dungeon for 10 years. I won’t be volunteering anytime soon!

Chirk castle and gardens cc Sue Hasker/Flickr

During the winter season, only the estate grounds are open to the public. However the Gardens will be opening on the 1st of February, along with the Tea Rooms and Gift Shop. The snowdrops are a major spring time attraction and will soon be blooming in the Pleasure Ground Wood. The Addams Tower, complete with medieval guards, and the State Rooms will open on the 1st of March.

For more information and opening hours visit the National Trust’s website http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/chirk-castle/

Whatever you do, don’t forget to visit Chirk Castle when you’re in the area. You won’t regret it! How will your experience Chirk Castle? Let me know and follow us on twitter @ceiriogpheasant!

Jan 22

Old Chirk Aqueduct

The Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal: 18 km of Wonder


Chirk Aqueduct with Chirk Tunnel Ahead Photo: Marek/Flickr cc

The first time I saw it, I was amazed. Such a powerful and strong landmark dominating but not imposing above the valley below, where the Ceiriog river flows past grazing sheep. If you have passed through the town of Chirk, you must have seen the Chirk aqueduct, twinned with the viaduct on which the train travels. Well, there’s more to it than meets the eye.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

You may have heard of the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage site that stretches from Chirk’s doorstep up to Pontcysyllte. What does being a World Heritage site mean? Well, that it is finally getting the attention it deserves, as it is protected as a cultural landmark, like the Great Wall or the Giant’s Causeway. Stretching over 18 km, it is a feat of engineering, a legacy from the Industrial Revolution. It is made of steel metal arches supported on tall but slender masonry piers. Conceived and built by the famous civil engineers Thomas Telford and William Jessop.

Old Chirk Aqueduct

Both aqueducts are outstanding structures and well worth seeing. The stretch itself goes over difficult terrain that has been tamed in order to provide the canal, including the Chirk Tunnel that starts at the north end of the aqueduct and continues on to Llangollen. One piece of advice, it’s dark in there so feel free to bring a flashlight. You can travel by boat, take a bike, or walk the stretch.


How will you discover this wonder of Wales? Don’t forget to join us on twitter!